September - Sheep Racing, Celebrations, and Low Expectations

September 21st Weekend

With some rain in the forecast for Friday night in Southern Illinois, we decided to spend Saturday playing at the Missouri Botanical Gardens with our favorite one year old. Growing up in St. Charles, I had vague memories of the Botanical Gardens being an extremely dull place where old people walked around and looked at plants. Twenty years later, I am now that old person. The Gardens is now one of my favorite places to visit in St. Louis and has one of the most amazing children's play areas I have ever seen. Christian, Micah and I had a blast riding on sheep, making music in the woods, and building towers with logs. 

After a nice dinner with family, we headed out to Jackson Falls to camp overnight and climb the next day. This trip was highlighted by Christian’s send of Cro-Magnon Warrior, 5.12b, on his second-go, despite a previous rainy day and less than optimal conditions. I spent the weekend climbing two new 11’s that I have never been on before. After a little confidence booster from onsighting Little Johnny Jewel, a stout 5.11b, I decided to try my luck on Twist, another challenging climb for its grade, 5.11c. The first half of the route is fairly mild, slowly gaining in difficulty as you approach the last bolt. After watching Christian onsight this climb, although not without a few grunts, it looked obtainable. However, after a few unsuccessful attempts at the crux, I felt rather defeated. A committing lunge with bad feet is not my cup of tea. After a few beta tips from Calvin, I worked out a more static and less desperate move through the crux and was able to send it with ease on the next go. There was, indeed, a few “twists” involved. 

Week of September 23-26

"Happy Birthday, Chelsea!" Micah happily exclaimed when she walked in the door that day. "Flowers!", he announced and pointed at the beautiful arrangement on the table for his favorite nanny. Micah loves his Chelsea and was so excited to spend the day celebrating with her. 

On September 26th, we celebrated our 4th wedding anniversary by going to one of our favorite restaurants, Stone Soup Cottage, now at their brand new location. Over the past 3 years, we have made this special dinner a yearly indulgence, locking in our reservations half a year in advance. Chef Carl consistently delivers a truly spectacular meal and unforgettable dining experience and we plan on returning for many years to come! 

September 28th Weekend

Smiling for the camera

As for this last trip of the month, I had one thing on my agenda: Frizzle Fry. After having come so close last spring season and getting even closer on it two weekends ago, I was psyched about the possibility of finally putting this climb to rest. We headed straight to Beaver Wall with Calvin early Saturday morning. Hiking in, we already started feeling the humidity in the air - definitely not optimal conditions for the slopers of Frizzle Fry. While we took turns warming up, Micah had a blast balancing on logs, collecting sticks, and making rock towers. 

   

With low expectations and the need for another warm up, I told Calvin that I planned on going bolt to bolt on Frizzle Fry to avoid the dreaded flash pump. I had no intention of sending it on that go. I started up the route, hitting the opening boulder problem perfectly. Still feeling good at the second bolt, I decided to push on. I flowed through the next section and soon I was at the sloper hueco. This is usually the point when my forearms are running on empty. To my amazement, I had more than enough energy to take a breath, chalk, and power through the cruxy undercling move. The muscle memory took over and I was on autopilot. Before I knew it, I was clipping the chains. I can’t remember the last time a climb that challenged me so much in the past felt this effortless for the send. 

As for effortless sending, Calvin was next to prove that it truly can happen, even on the most challenging of climbs. He had been working Shorty the Pimp (5.13a) on multiple trips throughout the spring season, but the climb continued to challenge him. On this day of suboptimal conditions and low expectations, Calvin told Christian that he would go bolt to bolt while hanging the draws. Minutes later and not a single grunt of effort heard, Calvin had flawlessly climbed his hardest route to date. Bravo!

Calvin at the anchors of Shorty the Pimp

Tasmanian Devil - The next project...

Summer Gnome, Aldi

Summer Gnome, Aldi. (Micah Speak for "Summer No More, All Done.")

The long and drawn out summer is finally over, which means the family can finally climb inside Moby, the big white whale, and head out of Missouri on some more adventures. This week we headed down to Southern Illinois to climb at one of our favorite crags, J-Falls. Micah had an absolute blast, laughing and smiling the whole weekend as we hiked, climbed, and read stories around the campfire.

"Alexander and the Terrible, Horrible, No Good, Very Bad Day"

M enjoying breakfast at the campsite

On Saturday, we met up with Sophie and Tony and were quickly humbled by the likes of Wrecking Ball (5.12c), Viking Blood (5.12c), and Bursting Out (5.12c). Upon returning to camp, we dined on bowl after bowl of delicious beef stew and homemade beer bread. Micah helped us gather firewood and soon it was set ablaze and toasty warm. We read numerous books by the campfire and watched the sparks dance into the cold, crisp, night air. I'm super excited that Micah, so far, loves the outdoors. He's giddy the whole time he's outside and I love it!

Learning the art of balancing on a log

Showing off how to climb a tree

 

CH on "Shorty the Pimp"

On Sunday, we climbed with Calvin and Angie at the Beaver Wall, where we were humbled by Shorty the Pimp (5.13a), Frizzle Fry (5.12b), and Red Corvette (5.13a). Calvin was so close on Shorty that I think we all cried invisible tears when he fell at the last bolt. He has been working so hard on this climb and truly deserves the send.

Y on "Frizzle Fry"

Yoli and Angie tried time and again to piece together Frizzle Fry. Angie is making great progress and Yoli, who has been working this climb since last season, has got it down to one fall again.

Everyone is really pushing their limits and the season has only begun.

It's so exciting when everyone is so psyched to be back outside and I'm anxious to see what this Fall season has in store for us all!

M and his buddy, "An-ni"

Our little family! 

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Maximus and the Comeback Kid

When Bumpa and Tutu left us last, they had mentioned that they would love to go on a climbing trip with us to watch us climb. We assured them that there was no way we would be climbing in mid-August, but Mother Nature gave us a real treat this year and delivered Fall early! So we piled into the van and headed to Arkansas for some sandstone climbing at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch.

Yoli, who was just two months post ankle surgery, decided to throw caution to the wind and tried her old nemesis, Horseshoes and Hand Grenades. She had almost sent it, years ago, but a foot-slip caused her to fall post-crux. This time around, she worked out the beta and was able to send it second go! After sending this super techy climb, she decided to jump back on an even techier and steeper climb calledBoronocus. This climb starts with technical sequences on small crimps with bad footholds and leads to a steep roof section that ends with 3 consecutive dynamic lunges before reaching the anchors. She made quick work of this 5.11c, proving once again that nothing can keep this girl down for long.

Bumpa, who had climbed many eons ago (likely before Sport Climbing was invented), put on a climbing harness and got tied in. With tremendous courage and determination, he put his paws onto the sandstone holds and began to ascend the steep rock face. He battled with the difficult bottom section and when he could go no further, I lowered him back down to the ground and we congratulated him for a job well done. Way to go Bumpa!

Tutu and Micah got to enjoy the hiking and watching horses, goats, and climbers at the ranch. On the last day of the trip, while Tutu and Bumpa were sitting on the porch of their cabin, a large horse decided to join them (on the porch). Brave Tutu got up immediately and stood up to the horse, telling him to back off and thankfully he obeyed.

A clever way that saves Bumpa's back and keeps M from face planting on rocks!

As for me, I got on a climb at the Roman Wall that I had, for some reason or another, avoided for many years. The climb is called Maximus and goes through the steepest section of the Roman Wall roof. I thought it looked steep from the ground, but it wasn't until I was in the roof section that I realized just how steep this intimidating roof really was! I tried my best to onsight the route, but I was unable to find a crucial hold right before the anchor. I ended up sending Maximus on the second go, but it wasn't such a bad thing, because it gave me to the opportunity to climb this stellar route a second time.

All in all, I'd say it was a great start to the Fall season and I'm super excited to see what's in store for Yoli if she's sending this hard just two months after ankle surgery! 

Wearing Bumpa's hat!

Thank you Bumpa and Tutu for coming out to visit us and braving a weekend of hiking and climbing at the Ranch! Aside from some nap troubleshooting and a long (very long...) drive home with a screaming toddler, the weekend went perfectly. Thank you for all of your tremendous help with the little man. He loved spending time with his Bumpa and Tutu and has continued to ask for both of you often!